Saturday, 18 March 2017

Into the Abacos

By the Cave on Great Harbour Cay
Trying to look like a scorpion
The end of the winds is supposed to be coming, though by the pictures....ya gotta wonder.  We hope to move in the next few days, either to the Abacos or to Lucaya by Freefort, just depends on which way the wind will blow that day.  
Sunset in Sugar Beach
As it turns out, we had been planning for crossing to the Abacos, then kind of a spur of the moment, we decided, then went.  We have to do this crossing in two stages.  We took the boat out and around the north end of Stirrup Cays and back down the east side of Great Harbour Cay to anchor for the night then cross over to Little Harbour in the Abacos the next day.  It is a 70 nautical mile crossing and will take us at least 12 hours to make the passage.
It was neat seeing our favourite bay and the Beach Club from the water side in Sugar Beach, instead of from the beach.  The wind has slowed down quite a bit, but the rollers haven't completely laid down, so we had a bit of a rolly night.

 We had to awaken at 3 am to get going and of course, we didn't sleep that great.  So in the dark, with the nearly full moon to help, we followed our chart plotter track out of the bay and onto our plotted course east towards Abacos.

It was amazing, the stars were all quite different than we are used to seeing in the evenings, and seemed to be millions more.  The bioluminescence was sparkling in the waves as we went by, making it magical, just beautiful. I fell asleep for awhile and woke up when the sun was just rising.  Thank goodness Al was driving...

We had a cruise ship heading to Nassau, and two freighters that went behind us to who knows where.  It doesn't take long for them to catch up and blow by us.

Hole in the Wall, Abacos
The ocean didn't really settle down that much, we were up and down over huge rollers, some coming from a few different directions.  At times, the ocean seemed to be seething, nothing dangerous, just roiling under and around us. Some times it felt like we needed to drop our boat down to second gear to get over the next wave then we'd race down the back side. It was quite the experience, I thought I'd be nervous but that didn't happen.

Little Harbour anchorage, Abacos
The bottom point of Abacos finally came into view and after following the west and southern coast we rounded the tip, called Hole in the Wall, and turned our noses north toward Little Harbour. The Hole in the Wall used to be just that, a hole in a rock wall, but Hurricane Sandy changed that with breaking off the top of the circle, so now its just another rock off shore. Here the travelling was a bit more of a challenge as we had most of the rollers on our beam.  After a few hours of zigging and zagging to reduce the rocky ride, the water settled and let us run a more straight course to our destination.  The wind again, was mostly on our nose, so the sails weren't much help until the lasts couple hours when its direction changed to the west and gave us a bit of a push to the Little Harbour cut.

Along the Sea of Abacos
The Cut can be tricky unless the wind, waves  and tide are all going the same way and there are reefs that jut out into the cut on both sides of the channel.  We had two of the three criteria for a safe passage, but we just followed the other six sailboats that arrived when we did and got in behind the reefs to gentler water.  We had a nice anchorage that night, the wind died down and after dinner, we both slept like logs all night.

Sunset in Marsh Harbour

The next morning we had a lazy start towards Marsh Harbour, it's not far, around 20 miles so won't take long to get there.  In the distance we could see a squall coming our way and like a freight train roiled over us and several other sailboats in no time.  Another boat with a  wind meter clocked the sustained wind at 20 - 25 knots with gusts a bit higher... the rain that came with it was torrential!!  As we had seen it coming, we battened down and got the rain gear on before it hit.  Some waves were splashing over the top of our bimini, we were heeling a bit, without sails up....  Our good little boat soldiered on through it all and got us safely to our slip in Mangoes Marina in Marsh Harbour.

Steve working hard with the band
We knew that the folks we had met in Great Harbour Cay were here, and also found a couple more boats that we had met before.  One couple we had met in Oriental in North Carolina and had been there to help me get out of the Harbour when I fell in.  Another couple, Steve and Lise are from Fifty Point Marina, in Ontario, the same marina that we had left from.  We went out to dinner with them the night we got there, to catch up and had a fun evening.

From our dock
Life in Marsh Harbour is very different from life at Great Harbour Cay to say the least.  We saw more cars in five minutes that we would see in a week in Great Harbour.  There are many more people, stores, boats, cars..... the good thing is that there is a regular grocery store here, what a treat, however the prices are much highter here too than Great Harbour.  This is also the base for 3 charter sailboat companies, Moorings, SunSail and Green Turtle there is an airport that takes fairly large planes too.  Its kind of in the middle of several popular Cays that are all within easy sailing distance from one another, no more than  about 12 miles for the furthest, others are much closer. There is Treasure Cay, Great Guana Cay, Man O'War Cay and Elbow Cay that are the most popular with access also by a ferry service.
Limbo at the Jib Room marina
We went over to another marina for their rib dinner night.  Good food, enough to be able to share a plate.  After dinner we watched as many participated in a limbo competition.  The fellow in the picture brought the bar down to about 14 inches and managed to limbo right under it, as it was on fire, and he lit his cigarette as he went under.  I have a video of it, as it was just so unbelievable.

Off to the Barefoot Man concert
View from Nippers decks

Green Heron with a large shrimp
There is a fellow called the Barefoot Man ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dITMYoWr5ko) who comes to Great Guana Cay each year for a weekend of music and debauchery, apparently. He is kind of a Jimmy Buffett like of music guy.  We went over for the free part on St Patricks day by ferry as no doubt there would be no place to anchor or dock as the place will be packed.  It is also spring break for a lot of colleges and universities so the place will be a bit crazy, hence the debauchery, and it became that as the day went along. The main event is Saturday so I'm sure it will be a wild place to be then. We had burgers lunch, listened for a bit then wandered off to see what the Cay was about.

Directions anyone??
It's long and narrow, has an amazing reef on the Atlantic side, its just in the picture from Nippers deck. The wind is blowing pretty good still, so it wouldn't have been very pleasant today to snorkel, cold out too.  There is one public marina, and a couple private marinas that aren't for us transient sort.  A couple hotels and several little cottages for rent and some even for sale, very expensive ones that aren't all that much to write home about.  Everyone runs around on golf carts, with the odd truck that hauls supplies about the island.  There is some construction, but like in other places the advancement is very slow, over many years at times.

When we got back to Marsh Harbour, the St Paddy's day celebrations were in full swing.  The local pub call Snappa's had sponsored the worlds shortest St Paddy parade, all of one block, past the liquor store which gave out a free green beer and then to Snappa's for free green drinks and jello shots.  We had missed out on the parade, however, not the free drinks, but that's another story - thanks to Jeff.  Snappas' were handing out the green jello shots quite freely though.

The next day we have decided to make a move as the wind has decidedly slowed down.  We wait for almost high tide to get out of our lttle marina and onto Hope Town on Elbow Cay.  Its only about a 2 hour motor away.  Guess where the wind was... on the nose most of the trip, and the last part it was too shallow to sail... have to keep an eye out for the very shallow bits.

Hope Town, Elbow Cay
What a quaint little town; the harbour is tiny and full of mooring balls, all of which are occupied, so we ended up in Hope Town marina.  Nice spot with two pools, one warm and one not, including a swim up to the bar part, a hot tub (empty today) and lots of lovely areas to just sit and well just sit and soak in the fact that this is where we are.  They also have a free shuttle to cross the harbour, as that's where most of the town is.  The streets are wide enough for a golf cart and walkers. There are beautiful gardens with flowering shrubs of orange, purple, yellow and red dripping over fences along the way. You could imagine that you're in some English seaside town, except for the palm trees.  The Atlantic side is stunning with its beaches and reefs just inviting us to go snorkel and explore - that's tomorrow.  We went through a little museum that tells the history of how the islands were inhabited, from the early inhabitants (Lucayans) obliterated by the spanish centuries ago through slavery, then to when the free slaves and loyalist moved over to the Bahamas from the States and how they survived and eventually thrived here.

Hope Town lighthouse
Back on this side of the harbour is a famous lighthouse that we climbed up for the most stunning view of the cays around us.  This lighthouse is still lit with kerosene and has the famous fresnal lens, one of the last ones in service.  When it was originally built, the locals sabotaged its construction; they made part of their living from the boat wrecks on the reefs and felt this light would cut into their livelihood.....
We came in from this direction today

View from the lighthouse

View from the lighthouse

 So this is our view today.  Hope your winter comes to an end soon and sunny warm days re there once again .



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Sunday, 5 March 2017

Still living the good life in the Bahamas...

Special Conch
So the verdict on cleaning the pretty conch….. is to boil it for ages, pull out the meat in one piece, then nuke it for a couple minutes to get any bits still left clinging to the shell.  When the flies go away and aren’t bothered with it anymore, you are good to go.  I went one step beyond and borrowed a pressure cooker and did ours in that for 45 minutes.  Oh man, the flies that hovered around the screen to the main hatch while it was stewing.  Despite the flies it worked well, using less power/fuel.  You can’t eat the meat in these particular shells as its poisonous, at least that’s what the locals tell us. They are beautiful shells, I hope to get mine home in one piece.

.Sand fats at low tide
Hawksnest cay (pronounced key) is just off the south end of Great Harbour Cay past the airport, and at low tide we can walk across the sand flats from Great Harbour Cay to it.  We went over there with Jeff and Sally and ended up walking around the entire Hawksnest Cay gathering some pretty shells and sand dollars.  The surf on the outside (next stop Africa) was surging so we couldn’t snorkel there, though its supposed to be an excellent spot for that. There is Haines Cay there too, another stunningly beautiful spot that I think we will try and get to before we leave, I hope.  On our way back to the beach, we came across a ray, hovering in about 6 inches of water.  It was interested in us and advanced closer and long enough for Sally to get a photo before it flew off with a puff of sand. 
Sand dollars

Of course, we had to go the Beach Club on our way back for lunch… it’s on the way.  We love going there, it overlooks Sugar Beach bay and beyond to the ocean.  The water has a multitude of colours that shift with the sun and wind, it always looks different every time we go there.  Just a gorgeous place to waste away an afternoon with new friends, which we have done more than a few times.

It actually rained and was cold here for a couple days, inconceivable as that is.  Did some inside stuff, cleaning, laundry even started the cross stitch that Deb gave me, … got the outside edge overcast.  Have to start somewhere…

This island has a very interesting newer history; (www.greatharbourcaymarina/history.html) it was going to be a secret hideaway for the rich and famous, including the Rat Pack. However, that part was just a rumour as they actually never set foot here.  There is an 18 hole golf course just up the road from us, that has the remains of a tremendous cement club house, that has fallen into great disrepair. 
The golf club house

It must have been amazing when it was built.  There is a map on the wall of the customs office of the plans that had been made for this island, nearly every inch had some part in the plan.  Approval to open a casino was never granted and the whole scheme fell apart. I have to admit that I am glad of that, because this place is a little gem that wouldn’t be, if the casino had been approved.  It’s a beautiful quiet place, no big hotels, no big bars, its lovely, as I’ve said a few times I think.  The airport is still very busy, with small jets and planes coming in regularly with passenger and cargo flights; we see most of them as the flight path is just east of the marina.  There are still a few very rich people here judging by some of the homes and boats that are here.

The town proper called Bullocks Harbour is small with mostly homes, but has a few businesses if you can find them.  Most buildings and homes don’t look like much from the street, some damaged by hurricanes and only partly fixed or not at all.  The town boasts 3 very small grocery stores, a liquor store, hardware store, pub, a couple restaurants, a school, playground and sport field that needs work, a couple churches and the harbour dock where the mail/food boat comes in weekly.  The boat can be delayed because of weather or mechanical issues, like this week.  The wind is too high so the boat hasn’t arrived from Nassau yet. 

The people here are so nice, we really do feel welcome visiting their island and as we’ve been here so long, I think we are recognized and get an extra honk on the car horn and waves as people pass us.  Our favourite place though, is the Beach Club, that overlooks Sugar Bay, a small little beach bar that has been around for many years and through a few hurricanes too. It is even in the story in the history link above.  Nisha is the bar tender there and is just the cutest and the most friendliest personality you could ask for.

 
The fridge bits have arrived
So, we cleaned out the food in our fridge, as it doesn’t hold the ice too well.  A bag of ice will last us only about 24 hours before its gone.  I don’t think it gets frozen hard in their ice machine, as it’s generally dripping before we even get back to the boat with a bag. The fridge took most of two weeks before it arrived, but when it did, blare the horns let the banners fly, we have a fridge again. Al had to put himself into all kinds of weird contortions to reattach the new cold plate into the ice box, but after many deep sighs (instead of swearing) he got it all attached and operational, my hero.  We have started filling it with meat again, now that we have an operational freezer.
north end of the Cay
Another day we rode the bikes to the most northern tip of the island, an interesting ride.  The trip itself isn’t too hard, the road is paved, but one has to watch for the potholes, or where mother nature is trying hard to reclaim the road by having the shrubbery creep over the edges of the pavement, into cracks and potholes.  On this trip we stopped where there is a large rock we could climb up onto to look out over the bays and beyond.  There was a bit of surf, which made it more spectacular, with the sun, the water colours and waves.  Further along the road we found a path that led to the actual tip of the island, where we could see the cruise ships anchored off the next islands to the north.  Norwegian and another (can’t remember which one) co-own the islands that I spoke of in an earlier blog.   Behind the islands you could see the cruise ship passengers out zipping around on the jet skiis over the shallow banks.  On our way back to the marina, we saw a couple wild pigs race across the road, quite a way ahead of us thankfully.

low tide - its quite the climb up
30 knot winds...
We had discovered quite quickly that getting weather forecasts is very important, we also found out that internet/cell service is not what you might think.  There are only 3 towers on the whole Berry Island chain, and they may not always work very well.  Repairs after Hurricane Matthew are still ongoing, as we have seen workers out messing with lines etc. Anyway, we ordered a portable Single Side Band(SSB) receiver that we had delivered to us here as well.  Now we listen to Chris Parker, the weather guru, that puts out a forecast every day except Sundays, over SSB each morning.  It is imperative to have access like this to keep us safe.  It also allows us to plan our movements between the islands, when it may be safe to travel and when not… like the next 4 week.  Along with several other boats we will not be moving before next week, as there is gale force winds blowing like stink from the east.  We’re talking 30 knot winds gusting to 40 knots. (40 knots = 74 km/h).  The waves on the eastern side of the island are getting big, and are to be much bigger by Monday, as this current pattern isn’t to slow down before then. I love taking pictures of waves….there are some big ones crashing over the little cays offshore.

So, life in the marina is good, lots of great people to mingle with.  The staff go out of their way to make sure that everything is in ship shape.  We can order homemade bread 3 times a week, there is a potluck one night a week, a pizza night, and a Grill and Chill on Fridays, and Saturday nights the little cafĂ© at the end of the dock puts on a small choice of meals.  They have this amazing Mac and Cheese side dish they make that is to die for.  Its baked, is spicy and generally just yummy.  I’m actually going to cook tonight, I found a Bahamian pigeon pea soup with dumplings that looks yummy.  There is a gazebo at the opposite end of the marina that looks to the west and there we enjoy the sunset and cocktails with other sailors in the evening.  We watch as fishermen come in with their catches of fish, lobster and conch to be cleaned on the dock.  There is some weird looking fish down here, but all good   hogfish, wahoo, conch, and the lobster that we can buy right off the boats. 

A big stinkpot (102ft) came in the other day and nearly took out one of the long piers trying to back into a spot.  Took out one cement post and did some damage to their boat as well.  They were gone the next day…never a dull day around here.  It’s a bit quieter here currently with no boats coming or going because of the wind.


So,… we will continue to be here, until we get a decent weather window, not looking like it will be too soon.  

Monday, 20 February 2017

Berry Islands

On the Bahama Bank
We made our crossing over the Bahama Bank to the Berry Islands from North Bimini the next day as the weather did cooperate.  We motored sailed mostly, as again the wind was on our nose once we turned the corner north of Bimini and headed east. 
It is amazing out there, the water is an incredible green, it’s no more than 20 feet deep for most of the trip over and you can’t see land from any direction.  There was a dolphin that scooted under us that we could see coming from quite a distance as the water is so clear, right to the bottom.  It’s hard to describe the clarity, being able to see the bottom so well from even 20 feet above. 
We ended up on the same trajectory as a sailboat from Newfoundland, heading to the pass around Mackie Shoal about 35 miles east of Bimini.  We chatted on the radio and ended up anchoring in the same area that night, out in the middle of nowhere.  Comfort in numbers with more lights, so less likely to be run over in the night.  The moon rose, nearly full, the wind quit, you could hear other boats motoring around us during the night, quite a surreal experience. 

The next morning, we said our good byes to our anchor buddies as they were continuing onto a different port.  The wind picked up a bit, but this time right behind us, so again we motor sailed to Great Harbour Cay (pronounced Key), and into the marina there, the only one of the Berry Islands. 

 It’s fascinating watching these little scrubs of islands coming into view.  At first they look like upside down moustaches poking up out of the ocean, then gradually more and more bits show up until you get most of a line of trees an odd tower and lastly buildings come into view.   The first impression is how on earth have these islands stayed top side of the ocean through all the hurricanes that have razed this area over the millennia.  Once ashore you realize that under the sand there is a lot of rock hard coral and that’s about all.  They don’t grow crops over here, so most everything eaten is brought in… except for seafood.  This place gets a delivery of food twice a week, mail once a week, but does have an airport that also brings in cargo and people.  They get their water from reverse osmosis; not sure if they collect rain water at all. There is lots of scrub, palm trees, mangrove trees and shrubbery that make the islands green.
Sugar Beach, Great Harbour Cay
Road sign
After we settled into our slip we found out that tonight was potluck night – everyone around brings something and we gather at the gazebo. It is a great place to meet sailors, and we do.  There are a lot of great people here.  The marina management goes to great lengths to make people comfortable, they have several activities happening during the week; besides potluck night, pizza night on Thursdays made by a local restaurant, Grill and chill on Friday night.  This week they had a Valentines dinner at the little hall they have here.  Tonight, there is another dinner we can sign up for at the little bakery shop down the dock if we choose.
The Valentines dinner was fun; the little hall was adorned with all sorts of Valentines decorations hanging from the ceiling, little vases of decoration

s and flowers on the tables.  The meal was ok, guess I’m spoiled, it was either a half stuffed Cornish hen or roast beef, potatoes and carrots.  The dessert was guava cake, that was yummy.
Across the Cay from the marina is an amazing beach that sprawls for miles in either direction.  The bay is also an anchorage depending on the wind direction, but mostly no one is there. It’s a short 15 minute walk to get there and just up the beach from the access path is a quaint little beach bar.  How rough is that… we went over to the beach with a couple of our neighbours for a swim then wandered up to the bar for a cold one.  The bar also sells breakfast and lunch, supposedly quite good; it’s all outside, plastic chairs, I guess for wet bottoms that have been swimming… like us and $4 beer.
Looking out from the Beach Bar
more beach,....
The marina has bikes that we used to peddle around the island.  There are little roads all over the place, the main ones paved, the others not and are either sand or the coral rock is chipped away in an attempt at a road.  There are a couple small little grocery shops, a pub/restaurant, police station, a government dock that receives the mail and supply boats, a bunch of homes, an airport and that’s about it.  Oh, there is an eighteen hole golf course here as well; I don’t think Tiger Woods will be playing here anytime soon, though it certainly would be a challenge. The airport is busy, as we hear small planes coming and going most days.  At the top end of the Berry Islands a few cruise ship companies have bought two of the islands and they stop here, a couple ships at a time, and take their passengers to shore to play on the beach and in the water, snorkeling, parasailing and such.  This helps with the local economy of the area as lots of locals commute out to these islands to work with the passengers.

Momma and baby Manatee
As I mentioned on Facebook, we are ‘stuck’ here waiting for our fridge parts to arrive, with luck mid-week next. It’s not a bad place to be stuck for sure with all that’s going on here.  We still have parts of the island that we haven’t been to yet including a Cay that has excellent shelling beaches and reefs to snorkel along.  
Our fridge had been making a beeping sound as it tried to start up.  We called the manufacturer, giving the model etc., his response was that version was older than he was and that it was kapootz.  Lovely.  There are no repair kits available either, so we bit the bullet and ordered a new kit.  We got a better deal and service from a distributor in Seattle than we could in Florida, go figure, and Florida was not willing to negotiate, so he didn’t get our business.  It was quite the chore getting the logistics sorted out to get the bits here, as part of its journey will be by air from Florida to here.  The bonus is that the new kit will be far more energy efficient than the old one, so we wait.

A few of our neighbours went out with a local fellow the other day to find Conch, and boy did they,… 70 of them.  I think they regret taking so many, as it turns out that the conch are being overfished a bit, and who needs that many.  The conch didn’t go to waste as there is a fellow at the end of the marina that has a little stand that makes fresh conch salads.  I haven’t tried one… I’m not one for raw seafood, but the word is that it’s great.

Can you find our cute little boat
The neighbours went out again a day or so ago and ended up on the shallow banks in low tide and were somewhat stuck.  Back at the marina we had noticed that they weren’t back and after discussion Al and another fellow went out in his little Boston Whaler looking for them.  It’s getting dark and finally one of the group came back and told the story of what was going on out there. Al and Don were sticking with the other two dinghies to help them get into the harbour in the dark.  A lesson learned by all about going out with the proper equipment at all times.  Thankfully the night was calm on the water.

They picked up only a few conch this time and some with incredible markings on them, very different than the regular pink ones that are everywhere.  They gave one of them to us, which we are trying to clean, or it will stink.  There are all kinds of interesting experiments happening amongst us, with different methods being employed to get the conch meat out in its entirety, from hanging one up by the foot, tossing another back into the water (it’s dead) and let the fish clean it out, soaking it in bleach, boiling it.  The verdict is still out on the best way to clean them to be able to keep the shell and not have the stink.
Conch cleaning crew...

 Yesterday we went with the neighbours on their big stink pot with 3 other folks to find a snorkeling spot on the other side of this island.  The journey entailed heading north from Great Harbour Cay and around the northern tip of the Berry Islands before heading down the other side to end up on the opposite side of the island we are currently staying at.  It took nearly 2 hours to get there and of course the wind is pretty brisk, not bad though.  We passed two big cruise ships and their little shuttle boats that were taking their passengers back and forth, to shore and back.  The beaches on that islands were littered with rows and rows of beach chairs and umbrellas and folks playing in the water.  Not sure of what all is available to the passengers once on shore, but there were lots of them on the beach.

We finally got to our destination, dropped the hook, ate a spot of lunch then took the plunge snorkeling for a bit before climbing back aboard.  When we headed back, we encountered a batch of cranky water.   There were a few 6 foot waves, but more that were smaller, so it was a rocky ride before we got around the tip of the Islands and heading back down the west side to Great Harbour Cay.  We were quite glad to be in the big stink pot, as it could have been a bit intense in anything smaller. 

So we will be here until our fridge parts come in…. gee darn…




Saturday, 11 February 2017

The big jump...

King St., Alice Town, Bimini


Oh, it has been a while since I last wrote in this blog, it’s a good thing I also keep a diary or I wouldn’t know where to start. 

Christmas decorations along the ICW
We popped in and out of marinas on our way to Ft Lauderdale some were close to the ocean, which of course we took full advantage walking the beaches and digging our toes into the sand and water.  One day soon we will stop early enough in a day to get a swim in.   We enjoyed our dinner on the dock on the edge of the ICW one night and saw another launch from Cape Canaveral.   I think we saw one of the rocket boosters being ejected.  There was a long bright tail behind it as it went along the same trajectory as the one we had seen in Virginia. 

As we travelled further south there were more and more restricted bridge openings which means we have to time our travel so that we don’t sit and wait between bridges.  The bad part is that some of these timings are based on boats that go faster than ours, mostly power boats travelling along the ICW to the next inlet.  Fair enough as there are far more power boats than sail, but it got frustrating when we would miss an opening by minutes, so would have to wait a half hour or longer until the next one.  Luckily, we didn’t have a long journey today and got into Las Olas City Marina in good time. 
Ad for the Beach Volleyball tourney
Atlantic Ave., Ft Lauderdale
Where we were, in Ft Lauderdale, was close to the ocean and a lovely beach, a whole two blocks away.  It’s a very busy section because of the beach front.  Along one side of the street is the beach and ocean with a lovely sidewalk that weaves its way along the beach around the palm trees that are set in the middle of the sidewalk. The other side of the streis packed with shops, restaurants, bars that literally come alive as the sun is going down, more so from Thursday through Sunday nights.  While we were there, they were setting up at one end of the beach for an international beach volleyball tournament, complete with a statue of hands over a volleyball net.  We hope to be gone by the time it happens, but it would have been neat to go to, especially as it was a free event.

Cruise ship heading out
We finally swam, the water was glorious, the waves fun to play in.  We spent a lot of time along this area, walking every night, sitting on the edge of the beach listening to great live music from the various restaurants.  One restaurant in particular had a great latin guitar player Alex Fox, most nights that we really enjoyed listening to.  We watched cruise ship after cruise ship, including the largest one out there, leave from Port Everglades just up the beach.  During the day we did get to outfitting our cute little boat, stocking up on supplies and planning for a crossing to the Bahamas.
We were here for most of two weeks before we felt we were ready for further journeys, so we moved on to just south of Miami in Biscayne Bay.  Sailing through this huge city was interesting, thankfully all the cruise ships were tied up and we didn’t have to worry about them.  There were fewer bascule bridges enroute from Ft Lauderdale to Miami until finally we were done with bridge openings.  That felt like an accomplishment. 

We tied up in Dinner Key just south of Miami on a mooring ball for a few days.  Time to try out our new solar system, tie down the new life raft, and find homes for all the supplies we purchased.  It is suggested that you stock up as much as you can fit on your boat for as long as you are in the Bahamas.  Everything is at least twice the price as it would be in the States, if you can get it, so that is what we did too.

Life Guard stn at Miami Beach
Miami Beach waiter
The mooring ball tie up was great, we could use our dinghy or use the shuttle service that was included in the price of the mooring, to get back and forth to shore.  We were in the area called Coconut Grove, nice spot.  We used the hop on hop off tour bus to go and see around a small bit of Miami.  It’s Al’s birthday this day, so we hop on and after going through Coconut Grove and learning its history, seeing the Biltmore Hotel where Al Capone apparently spent quite a bit of time, passed by the Venitian Springs, where the original Tarzan actor used to hang out.  We move on through Little Havana, with shops and restaurants of all sorts.  We are in a double decker bus, so get good views along the way, and have to duck to miss getting smacked by palm branches.  At the bus central terminal we hopped onto the Blue loop which took us out to Miami beach.  It’s lovely out there, passing the cruise ship terminal where Jenna and Braden would have left from on their honeymoon. 

The Carlyle Hotel
We got off the bus and wandered over a couple blocks to Miami beach, which is very wide and today has quite a few people there as it is a Saturday, before we headed back up to the streets.  The area has maintained its art deco feel from earlier years and is beautiful.  There are heaps of smaller hotels, nothing over 3 stories and each floor has eyebrows (art deco style).  We stopped for lunch at The Carlyle Hotel where Robin Williams movie Bird Cage was filmed.   We sat out on the deck enjoying the views of the ocean and people wandering the streets like us.  There was a valet (master) in front of the Carlyle encouraging folks driving by to stop in, he was in the middle of the street.  He was obviously well know, as many tooted their horns or waved to him as they went by.  It must have been his straw fedora, but he really played the part.

We had a fabulous view of Miami from the back of our boat.  Its night time skyline is very colourful, very pretty.  A couple nights we saw fireworks being set off from various places to add to the ambience.  It never really gets dark there because of all the lights.

We had dinner at a cute little cafĂ© on the water beside our marina and watched sailboat after sailboat come in.  This area is the training centre for Olympic sailors during the winter so we saw boats from Canada and Great Britain as well as the States coming back in.  This whole Biscayne Bay is a sailing mecca, as its wide, deep enough and gets enough wind so there were boats under sail out there all the time. We have had to pinch ourselves many times to make sure this is all real and we're really here.

We finally got our weather window to sail over to Alice Town on North  Binimi  of Bahamas.  Its not a long journey, 50 nautical miles, something our little boat is quite capable of doing in a day.  There is also the extra lift from the Gulf Stream that flows north, in some sections as fast as 3 knots.  The plan generally is to either start farther south in the Florida Keys or make a heading by a few degrees south of our intended destination to be able to use that 3 knots to get us across a bit faster.  We had intended on leaving at 5:30 am to make sure we got over there in daylight, unfortunately,… the button on the alarm wasn’t pulled out far enough and a 6:30 we woke up thinking it was too light for 5:30……
We got under way in about 20 minutes and still managed to use the outgoing tide to help us out of the channel around Cape Florida on the Biscayne Key and away we went. The second option for crossing the Florida Straight is what we chose and it worked well as we were going at speeds up to 8 knots in our 6 knot boat.  We had left our mooring at 6:50 and got into our slip in Alice Town by 3 pm.  The wind and waves picked up as we were closing in on the islands, but not too much that it caused us any issue getting into the narrow channel.  JR the dock master, at Bluewater Marina welcomed us and helped us into the slip.  Very nice and capable fellow, no new bruises on our cute little boat. 

To check into a new country by boat, you should raise a small yellow (quarantine) flag to indicate that you have not yet been cleared by their customs.  Al, as the captain has to take the incoming border documents (like you get on airplanes going to another country), passports and even a copy of our boat registration to their office to get processed.  The Bahamas has an entrance fee for boats which gives you entry into their country, two fishing permits and a neat stamp in our passports.  There are several pages of documents to fill out, including a health questionnaire asking if anyone died on the way here or had any infectious diseases.  Al has a cold, but they still let him in thankfully. Their dollar is on par with the US greenback and both are interchangeable.

So, while Al was getting us cleared I had been chatting up a few people on the dock getting the scoop on things around the marina and the town. Found out a few interesting things, where the beach is, where the best bread is made, important stuff.  When Al got back we ceremoniously raised our Bahamian courtesy flag to replace the yellow flag.  Next, straight into the pool, as its cooking out, and finally cheered our safe crossing with a nice cold beer while sitting by the pool.  The remainder of the day was spent sitting by the pool, which turned into a gathering place for fellow sailors (sundowner time) and gleaned as much as we could about the Bahamas from those who have been before. 

Next day we went off exploring from one end of North Bimini to the other; which consists of one main street, King Street that runs right down the middle of the island and another, Queen St.  that parallels the main one but closer to the islands western shore and only in places does this one run.  Further to the northern end is a large resort which also caters to cruise ships that drop in.  We haven’t seen one yet, but we do recall that the main departure for cruise ships out of Ft Lauderdale is Saturdays, so we’ll have to see if one shows up then. 

The islands aren’t real fancy by any means, quite simple, there are cars and golf carts that people run up and down the main street in.  This main street isn’t very wide, in fact two vehicles really have to be careful passing in opposite directions, and pedestrians don’t have much more room to keep out of the way.  There aren’t sidewalks, the businesses and houses yards run almost right up to the roads paved edge.  We are the visitors so always get off the road and out of the way, but the locals don’t usually, many just keep walking along the pavement and expect the vehicles to miss them.  We aren’t so brave.  The speed limit is only 15 mph, but still.  They drive on the British side of the road here, left over from when Britain did rule here, they gained independence from Great Britain in the 70’s I think.  I think that their licence plates are given in numberical order.  Any number between 1 through 1034 are numbers on plates that I saw.
Conch Gate post

The ocean side is simply stunning, the colours you just can’t believe until you actually see them.  Those pictures in magazines don’t do it justice.  We can clearly see down many feet, and under our boat it’s like there is no water at all.   With this clarity, you get to see all kinds of fish, a few bull sharks that come in with the fishermen.  The sharks like to clean up the guts and stuff that the fishermen toss.  One such shark comes by around 4 pm every day.  We saw him when we arrived yesterday.   He can’t hide in these waters, nothing can.  This clarity has its own issues, in that we will have to learn to ‘read’ the water to understand what depth is under our keel and whether that dark patch is grass or a coral head.

We are just across the harbour from a very lively Tiki bar of sorts that plays very loud rap music, and it comes over the water and right into all of our boats.  The first night it was hard to get used to, but last night it didn’t take long at all to fall asleep.  I guess sleeping next to a train track at home helped get used to the loud noise.  The music tended to be less as the week went along, which I wouldn't have thought would happen.

Today, we were on a mission to find the famous Bimini coconut bread, got to Charley’s bakery just in time for a warm out of the oven loaf of bread.  Oh man is it good!!.

That night the whole lot of sailors in the marina decided we should go over to the beach side of Alice Town for a sundowner.  What a lovely night for it too, a bit cool as a front went by the other night, but glorious.  Watched the sun set, chatted with all like-minded sailors, just totally enjoyable.  We grabbed a snack from the food truck later, conch fritters and a wrap.  Those fritters just melt in your mouth.  I thought the ones we had on the mainland were good….oh no, no comparison.


Today we are all comparing notes on where to go next, and when to go further. The weather is looking like tomorrow is the time, as we will be anchoring out on the Bahama bank in about 10 feet of water in the middle of nowhere.  There is nothing between here and the Berry Islands, so it’s what you have to do to get there.  One experienced couple left today, we gleaned a bunch of information from them before they left.  There is yet another low pressure due to come through on Wednesday night, so we will plan on being snug in a marina in the Berry islands by then.
Tough afternoon on the beach

So all for now.... from warm and sunny Bahamas sitting under the full moon by the pool.  Ya Mon...


The internet is very sloooooowwwwww over here, so not sure how much of a blog will come through.
I'll send more pictures when I have a few hours.... these 10 took over 1/2 hour to upload...